New Jersey Food Journal

Thursday, May 21, 2015

The Ampersand: How A Bakery in Garwood Embraced The Symbol

Photograph provided by Rachel
By Kimberly Dublin

There is so much more to &Grain, an artisan bakery in Garwood, than just delicious bread – that’s made fresh daily – and cold brewed iced Stumptown coffee on tap. It might be the quirky bicycle that sits in the middle of the cafĂ©, with baguettes in its basket, as if you are walking by the transportation of choice of a French girl on the way to a picnic. It might be the handwritten chalkboard menu.

Or it could be that wherever you turn, the ampersand follows you.
The ampersand is certainly part of &Grain’s identity. The coffee cups bear the symbol. The employee aprons have ampersands embroidered on them. There are various materializations of the ampersand, all in different typography but in the same Carolignian form. (That’s this & symbol.) And John Ropelski, the owner of &Grain, certainly has thought about using the ampersand as branding, placing it on the smallest of details. Even the stickers on the to-go packages bear the little symbol.

There has been a resurgence in the usage of the ampersand. We can most likely trace it to Twitter, since the symbol saves precious space. But &Grain is not the only business to embrace the ampersand. Brands that have been around for a while, such as H&M, AT&T, Dolce & Gabbana and H&R Block, have all used the ampersand. But, for Ropelski, the ampersand has become a huge part of the identity of &Grain.

He didn’t like the name at first; it was a suggestion from his designer. “I wanted it to be Grain & Co., but she told me, ‘everyone is ‘& Co.’, everybody’s ‘& son,’” Ropelski said.

But the designer insisted, saying that it allowed people, who maybe didn’t understand the name at first, to be in the know when they got it.
Another reason Ropelski embraced the ampersand is that it puts his restaurant at the top of an alphabetical list. When New Jersey Monthly listed its “57 Hot Spots to Wake To,” his shop was first. “People thought &Grain was No. 1 because of the way it’s listed.”

But using the ampersand isn’t always easy. Ropelski has problems with vendors because sometimes ampersands are not allowed in the system they use. Social media sites, such as Facebook and Instagram, don’t allow the use of symbols in handles and URLs. Ropelski uses the word “and” to replace the ampersand.

But Ropelski isn’t all bogged down about it. A few inconveniences exist, but otherwise he is happy with the way the name turned out. Embracing the ampersand may have ultimately paid off.

Kimberly Dublin is a senior journalism student at Rutgers University. She is a contributor to TheFatKidInside.com and is an editorial intern at EdibleFeast.com