New Jersey Food Journal

Monday, March 24, 2014

A Recipe for Entrepreneurship

&Grain's John Ropelski demonstrates gluten structure to Rutgers students in Teresa Politano's
food journalism class. | Photo credit: Alexa Wybraniec
By Jordan Pringle

“Be thorough. If you think you are thorough, be even more thorough.”

John Ropelski, owner and head baker of &Grain in Garwood, offered Rutgers students business advice during a visit to his artisanal bread shop. The Union native talked about bread, coffee and entrepreneurship. For students nearing graduation, it was impressive and inspiring. Ropelski offered advice about starting a business, from choosing a location to hiring employees to saving enough money for unexpected bumps along the way.

Ropelski, a graduate of Fairleigh Dickinson University who made good money in the mortgage field, decided to go to French Culinary School and start his own bread bakery. He could afford tuition because he always saved his money.

“I was a saver,” Ropelski said. “I knew eventually there would be a rainy day.”

His goal was to offer the kind of food he would enjoy, while offering something different. At &Grain, he bakes the bread in-house, which is rare.

“There are no corner bread bakers anymore,” said Ropelski. “It is very difficult.”

Ropelski first set out to perfect his craft, and worked at two of the most important bakeries in New York City.

“You have to make bad bread before you can make good bread,” he said.

When first starting his bakery, Ropelski’s biggest concern was location. He originally wanted to open in Summit, but couldn’t find space. After researching the surrounding areas, Ropelski committed to Garwood, a small town with a growing business district, one with a train station and the potential for business from commuters. His shop, on the bottom floor of a new development, is designed to look like an industrial farmhouse, with lots of wood and a comfortable atmosphere. He prizes his exquisite oven and his glass-encased bakery.

When he first opened, Ropelski would wake up at 1 a.m. to begin baking and often ended his day at 10 p.m. To hire a baker, he went through 13 applicants before finding one who was both reliable and skilled.

“You are only as good as the people that you work with,” Ropelski said.

A year and a half later, the bakery is still in the red, as Ropelski tries to stay on top of paying back initial loans and handling bills on time.

“I’m not big enough and I don’t have enough customers.”

Jordan Pringle is a senior at Rutgers majoring in journalism and media studies with a minor in psychology.

Editor's Note: The stories covering &Grain were written by students in Teresa Politano's food journalism course following a class visit to &Grain on Feb. 12, 2014.